Semana passada compartilhei aqui minhas percepções sobre o desfile de duas marcas italianas que amo muito! A MFW é de fato uma das semanas de moda mais encantadoras e mais duas grandes marcas chamaram a minha atenção. Albterta Ferretti e Valentino apresentaram coleções apaixonantes e decidi trazer no post de hoje alguns hightlights sobre esses desfiles.

Alberta Ferretti

Para apresentar sua coleção Primavera-Verão 2021, Alberta Ferretti realizou seu desfile presencial ao ar livre, nos jardins do Castello Sforzesco, em um clima relaxante e despreocupado que também se fez presente na coleção apresentada, que se mostrou mais fiel que nunca ao estilo romântico e feminino que caracterizam o traço da estilista. Sua grande inspiração para esta coleção foi o romance, a suavidade e a gentileza, ambos constituindo uma força interna que a designer considera crucial, principalmente nos tempos difíceis que temos vivido.

Imprimindo o poder natural da feminilidade em sua nova coleção, Alberta apresentou peças delicadas e fluídas que representavam perfeitamente seu ideal de graciosidade. Esvoaçantes vestidos de musselina, peças com os mais delicados bordados e rendas suaves em macramê deram ritmo à sua valsa de sensibilidade. Além de peças dignas de um conto de fadas, a estilista também ecoou sua preocupação em atender as necessidades de mulheres reais ao apresentar criações “para o guarda-roupa”. Jeans colorido em tons pasteis apareceram em calças apertadas e de cintura alta como o elemento central para desenvolver opções práticas e ao mesmo tempo, com significado. Camisas bordadas e mangas bufantes também surgem como elementos românticos e femininos, numa escolha por leveza e suavidade que trazem à tona o poder e a força que se projetam através do romantismo.


Para encerrar a MFW com chave de ouro, a Maison Valentino apresentou sua coleção Primavera-Verão 2021 num desfile mágico e impactante. Diretor criativo à frente da grife, Pierpaolo Piccioli buscou sair um pouco do universo da haute-couture no qual a Maison tem suas raízes aprofundadas e trabalhou mais sobre a identidade da marca em detrimento de sua estética extravagante. Num golpe de ousadia, Piccioli ressignificou os códicos estéticos da label em uma interpretação do que o designer chamou de romance radical.

Individualismo, idealismo, rebelião, liberdade de escolha, autenticidade e diversidade foram as palavras de ordem para esta coleção, numa narrativa do mundo ideal para seu designer. Para seguir essa história contada através da moda, cada peça foi pensada individualmente e de acordo com a personalidade de cada personagem idealizado para ela, homens e mulheres que contam diferentes histórias e vivências através de seu estilo pessoal. 

Rendas, macramê, crochê, bordados e outras texturas provenientes da expertise em alta costura da label ganharam um toque de simplicidade em um approach que logrou oferecer um novo olhar sobre a marca e, ao mesmo tempo, se manter fiel a sua essência. A abordagem de uma Valentino revisitada, moderna e sofisticada se desenvolveu numa progressão suave entre looks minimalistas e lineares, e vestidos que carregavam a elegância a imponência típicas de um Valentino. Nessa dança entre estilos, Piccioli apresentou um fashion show carregado de emoções e significados reais e humanos.

Beijos, Lalá.


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