A ABERTURA DA SEMANA DE MODA DE MILÃO

DOLCE AND GABBANA

Primeira das big 4 (Paris, Londres, Nova York e Milão) a retomar sua fashion week de forma presencial, Milão teve sua semana de moda oficialmente aberta no último dia 22. Os desfiles presenciais da Dolce and Gabbana e da Fendi foram responsáveis por dar start ao fashion business italiano em uma nova normalidade, recuperando características do mundo pré pandemia e adaptando-as à realidade de cautela atual. 

A volta às passarelas veio, dessa vez, acompanhada de uma nova responsabilidade virtual que se espera das grandes marcas mundiais: além do público reduzido e do respeito às normas de distanciamento social, ambos os desfiles foram transmitidos virtualmente, impulsionando a democratização do acesso às primeiras fileiras. Aqui de casa pude viver a magia desses eventos, acompanhar de pertinho os lançamentos dessas marcas que tanto amo e venho compartilhar com vocês alguns dos highlights de ambos os shows.

DOLCE AND GABBANA

Sempre vibrante e colorida, a Dolce and Gabbana, sob direção criativa de Domenico Dolce e Stefano Gabbana, apresentou mais uma coleção de DNA italianíssimo para a temporada de Summer Spring 2021. A cada temporada, a marca explora elementos inspirados na região da Sicilia: flores exuberantes, limões sicilianos, estampas de azulejos, frutas e muita renda são constantemente revisitados em diferentes peças e estampas a cada coleção. 

Para esta coleção, contudo, toda a criação foi inspirada no upcycling: ao invés de investir na criação de mais um print para a grife, a coleção foi desenvolvida a partir do reaproveitamento de estampas e recortes de tecidos usados em coleções anteriores, numa escolha muito acertada para a escassez de recursos impulsionada pela crise pandêmica. 

O patchwork foi a arte que dominou neste desfile que representa a  reconstrução. O objetivo da dupla criativa era cultivar o valor do patchwork como arte, incentivar o upcycling no mundo da moda e, claro, representar toda a exuberância italiana sem a qual a D&G não é D&G. Clássicas estampas floridas e animal prints desfilavam em meio a tecidos metalizados, peças de alfaiataria, calças construídas com diferentes recortes de jeans, biker shorts e os icônicos vestidos da grife, em um espetáculo vibrante de cores e texturas. 

FENDI

Silvia Venturini Fendi se despediu do cargo de Diretora Criativa à frente da Fendi apresentando uma coleção cheia de significado. Para a temporada de Summer Spring 2021, foi entregue uma coleção que simboliza a fusão latente que vivemos hoje entre o mundo físico e a realidade virtual. 

Num mix entre cores claras, neutras ou terrosas contraposto a tons sóbrios e vibrantes, como vermelho e laranja, o contraste foi o ponto central que norteou a coleção. Tecidos dos mais leves e delicados e silhuetas esvoaçantes eram intercalados com silhuetas volumosas, peças de alfaiataria e tecidos estruturados, numa dança equilibrada entre extremos que se encontravam. Texturas ricas, transparências finas, acessórios poderosos e um casting nada convencional deram o tom do desfile, que representou com perfeição a nova realidade que inspirou cada criação. 

Beijos,

Lalá.

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