O Jardin de Plantes em Paris foi o palco escolhido por Oliver Rousteing para apresentar sua nova coleção prêt-à-porter para a Balmain, na última quarta-feira (30/9). O desfile noturno foi motivo para celebração em grande estilo dos 75 anos da marca fundada por Pierre Balmain, cujo legado também foi inspiração central para o desenvolvimento da coleção.

Diretor criativo à frente da brand francesa, Oliver declarou que quis celebrar o otimismo e a audácia que foram armas cruciais para a fundação da marca e que se fazem mais necessárias do que nunca no contexto social que 2020 implicou sobre a humanidade como um todo.

Nas passarelas, o desfile já se inicia refletindo todo o DNA irreverente e oitentista da marca através de uma alfaiataria em silhueta reta e com bastante volume nos ombros, que vibrava em verde e rosa neon. Em seguida, a mesma alfaiataria imponente volta a aparecer, agora contrastando os mesmos tons de neon com a neutralidade do cinza e instaurando as primeiras nuances contrastantes entre cores saturadas e tons neutros que ditaram o ritmo da coleção.

Tons de azul marinho e blue jeans desfilaram também em cortes retos ou volumosos, e o army style característico do traço de Oliver foi a aposta certeira para manter a identidade e coesão entre cada peça da coleção. Quando não nos deparávamos com os clássicos smokings de super ombreiras, surgiam cardigãns de cashmere ou casaquetos de tweed decorados com grandes botões. Ao predomínio do jeans e da alfaiataria clássica, eram somados detalhes assimétricos, corpetes ajustados, bermudas biker, calças com modelagem flare e bolsas de mão.

Para amarrar o conceito que envolve a homenagem ao legado da marca, Oliver uniu sua paixão por criações gráficas em preto e branco à recém adaptada estampa PB da marca, que representa o monograma com as iniciais de seu fundador com inspiração nos intrigantes labirintos dos jardins da França Renascentista, pelos quais Pierre sempre declarou seu fascínio.

Beijos, Lalá.


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